My Argument: Thrift stores are meant to be affordable, accessible, and community-driven. But, when brand names dictate pricing, those values are going to get lost in the shuffle.

Walk into any thrift store today and you might find a worn GAP hoodie priced at $18. Just barely below its original retail price. Or a pair of Banana Republic slacks marked at $25, despite visible wear.

Examples like these reflect a growing trend in secondhand retail: pricing based on brand recognition rather than garment condition, age, or actual demand. This phenomenon is called the “brand tax” and it raises important questions about accessibility, ethics, and the evolving identity of thrift culture.

The Rise of Brand-Based Pricing

Thrift stores have always varied in pricing. However, the past decade has seen a shift toward more strategic, brand-conscious pricing models. While pricing was once based on offering quality goods to lower-income neighborhoods, it is now heavily influenced by brand rarity and market rends. While this might make sense from a business perspective, it is acting against the ethos of the thrift store history. As well as leading to inflated prices for items that do not warrant such high price tags.

A common example is that a thrift store might price a Zara blouse higher than a similar-quality unbranded blouse simply because Zara is recognizable. This pricing shortcut ignores the actual amount of wear, type of material, and reasonable resale value of the item. It also assumes that shoppers are willing to pay more for the label alone. A risky bet in communities that are relying on thrift stores for affordability.

The Gentrification of Thrifting

Thrifting has gone mainstream. That’s the real problem here.

What was once a necessity for many has become a curated aesthetic for others. Social media influencers post “thrift hauls” featuring brand-name finds styled to perfection. Resellers scour racks for undervalued pieces to flip online. And thrift stores – eager to capitalize on this demand – have adjusted their pricing accordingly.

This gentrification isn’t just about who shops at thrift stores—it’s about who thrift stores are now designed to serve. When prices rise to meet the expectations of middle-class trend seekers, low-income shoppers are pushed out. The racks may still be full, but the mission has quietly changed.

In some cities, you’ll find boutique-style thrift stores with color-coded racks, curated vintage sections, and price tags that rival department stores. These shops cater to a different demographic—one that sees thrifting as a lifestyle choice rather than a financial necessity. And while there’s nothing wrong with enjoying secondhand fashion, the problem arises when that enjoyment comes at the expense of accessibility.

Mission vs. Margin

Thrift stores walk a delicate line. Many are nonprofit organizations that use sales to fund job training, housing programs, or community outreach. Others are for-profit chains that treat secondhand goods as inventory to be optimized. Both models face pressure to stay financially viable—but how they respond to that pressure matters.

When pricing strategies prioritize brand prestige over affordability, they risk undermining the very communities they claim to support. A thrift store that prices a worn J.Crew blazer at $40 may make a quick sale to a reseller, but they’ve also made that item inaccessible to someone who needed it for a job interview.

The question isn’t whether thrift stores should make money—it’s whether they can do so without abandoning their roots. Ethical pricing doesn’t mean everything is dirt cheap. It means prices reflect condition, usefulness, and community context—not just the logo on the tag.

What Can Shoppers Do?

If you’re a thrift shopper who values both style and social impact, here’s some common methods for navigating the brand tax.

Look beyond the label

A well-made unbranded coat might outlast a trendy fast fashion piece.

• Construction matters more than branding. Focus on stitching, lining, and fabric weight—these often reveal quality better than a logo.
• Timeless design beats trend cycles. Unbranded pieces with classic cuts and neutral colors tend to stay wearable longer than trend-driven items.
• Brand prestige doesn’t equal durability. Many fast fashion brands use low-grade materials despite recognizable names.
• Unbranded vintage can be a hidden gem. Older garments often feature superior craftsmanship, even if the label is unfamiliar.

Assess condition first

Check seams, fabric quality, and wear before deciding if the price is fair.

• Inspect seams and hems. Loose threads or uneven stitching can signal poor construction or heavy wear.
• Feel the fabric. Natural fibers like wool, cotton, and linen tend to last longer and wear better than synthetics.
• Check for pilling, fading, or stretching. These signs of wear can help you negotiate or decide if the item’s lifespan is worth the price.
• Look at closures and hardware. Zippers, buttons, and snaps should be intact and functional—replacing them adds cost and effort.

Support mission-driven stores

Seek out shops that prioritize community service over resale margins.

• Research the store’s mission. Many nonprofit thrift stores fund job training, housing, or local outreach—your purchase supports more than just fashion.
• Ask where the money goes. Staff or signage may explain how proceeds benefit the community.
• Look for fair pricing practices. Mission-driven stores often price based on accessibility, not just brand recognition.
• Support stores that reinvest locally. Shops that donate unsold items or partner with shelters often align with ethical consumer values.

Ask questions

If a price seems high, ask how it was determined. Some stores are open to feedback or offer discount days.

• Inquire about pricing policies. Some stores use algorithms, brand lists, or staff discretion—knowing the method helps you shop smarter.
• Ask about condition-based discounts. Items with minor flaws may be eligible for markdowns.
• Look for rotating sales or tag colors. Many thrift stores offer weekly discounts based on tag color or item category. (This is to manage their inventory better and to provide incentives to consumers to help them clear through that inventory.)
• Offer respectful feedback. If you notice consistent overpricing, share your thoughts—especially at nonprofit stores that value shopper input.